a big hobby of cole slaw

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Senior Member
Please, what does "hobby" mean in the еxample below?

Donie Carawan put her bare arm through my blue-sleeved elbow while an old man sliced chunks of barbecued hog on paper plates for us. The old woman forked on a hush-puppy and a big hobby of cole slaw.

"The Little Black Train" by Manly Wade Wellman, 1962

Thank you.
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